Tea Stall Along the Ganges River

When I arrived at field partner BJS on the first day of my fellowship, I was warmly greeted by staff, then swiftly escorted into the CEO’s office. The first order of business? Tea. “How would you like your tea, madam? Black or with milk?” “Um, with milk, please. Thank you!” It arrived in a beautiful white china teacup decorated in gold. A special guest cup, to be sure. There I sat with a few staff members as we got to know each other over tea. I felt so proper and sophisticated, quickly turning my back on the trusty mug of joe that got me through many years of working in Los Angeles. I had certainly drunk tea at home and had actually accumulated quite a collection, but this was different. The ceremony was as sweet as the tea itself (and Indians aren’t light handed with the sugar!). One of the jobs of the office assistant is to prepare tea for staff and guests. At BJS, that person is Arindam.

Arindam Making Tea

So each day begins with a tea offering. I usually take it with milk, but sometimes I throw him off and ask for lal cha (black tea). Lal actually means “red”, but since westerners refer to tea without milk as black tea, you’ve got your translation. Milk tea is dudh cha, which literally translates to dudh (milk) cha (tea). 

Dudh Cha in Pretty China Cup

Indians always offer guests a cup of tea, whether at work or home. On my second day, a bank representative came to the BJS office for a meeting, and she got the pretty china cup! The rest of us were all offered tea as well, and we drank together. I gave a presentation a few days later, and as everyone gathered, tea was passed around. I doubt a business deal is ever made without its presence.
Consumption of tea in India can be traced back to about 700 BC, but it wasn’t commercially produced until the arrival of the British East India Company in the early 1800s. India is one of the largest tea producers in the world, along with Sri Lanka, China and (surprisingly) Kenya. Darjeeling and Assam are the largest tea regions in the country, both in the north. 
Unlike the steeping method used in the Western world, Indian tea is typically boiled. Loose tea leaves swirl in a pot of water as it's heated. If making milk tea, which is most commonly drunk, milk and sugar are added to the pot and returned to a boil before being strained into cups. Sometimes ginger and/or cardamom are added to produce masala chai, a wonderfully rich and subtly spicy concoction that is WORLDS away from the sickly sweet dredge that comes out of a paper carton and mixed with milk to produce “chai lattes” in some ubiquitous coffee houses. But no judgment wink Here, tea stalls can be found on nearly every street corner. The cha wallah mans the cart and pours his infectious brew into a paper cup, plastic cup or matir bhar, literally translated as “mud cup”. The latter is thin earthenware fired in a kiln, meant to be disposed of after using. How ingenious.

Various Tea Cups- Paper, Matir Bhar and Plastic 
On a recent road trip to one of the branch offices, we stopped for a tea break on the way up, and again on the way back. The journey was long- more than three hours each way- so the pit stops were welcomed. Both times I watched the cha wallah intently as he prepared our addictive brew, and took pleasure in each satisfying sip. 

Cha Wallah Preparing Tea

There are many ways to take tea in India, including a version with sugar, lemon and a dash of salt, but I prefer sweet and creamy milk tea or masala chai. There’s something regal, yet completely pedestrian about the tea culture here. From street-side stalls where it can be had for less than a dime, to corporate boardrooms, it’s a unifier among Indians. And it makes me feel right at home. 

Enjoying Tea at My Desk!

BJS Colleague, Uttama, With Dudh Cha


About the author

Shelley Graner

Shelley is a native Californian who graduated from California State University, Chico with a BA in Communications. After college she backpacked through Europe (as one tends to do) and got her first taste of international travel- her eyes had opened. Upon returning to the States, Shelley entered the production and post-production world, working on-set for independent feature films, followed by a gig as a video editor at a small ad agency. An itch to explore the world returned, so she spent a year teaching English in Japan, learning new business practices and etiquette (always use two hands when presenting a business card!). After Japan, she continued traveling through Southeast Asia where she was confronted with true poverty for the first time. It was an experience she never forgot, and it eventually inspired her first Kiva loan in 2010. Most recently Shelley managed digital marketing at IMAX, where she was responsible for the online promotion of both mainstream films and documentaries. The latter afforded her the pleasure of working with a number of non-profit organizations while overseeing the creation of websites and overall digital/social strategies. But it was while watching- not marketing- a few moving documentaries about the empowerment of women in developing countries that inspired Shelley to vacate her office and step into the field. She is thrilled to help open a new branch in India.